The After Dinner Edit

Restaurant Review · Houston, Texas

This ‘tiny’ joint delivers big flavor and good vibes

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What to know

Named for the microbes that make wine and bread possible, Tiny Champions arrives from the team behind beloved EaDo staple Nancy’s Hustle. Set against warm wood paneling and lit by the dim glow of mismatched chandeliers and haphazardly strung lights, Tiny’s turns out seriously sophisticated pizzas and pastas with a cool-kid attitude that never feels forced. Equal parts effortless and refined, it’s the perfect place to toast the end of the work week or linger over drinks and a pie with good company. One note: this place fills fast, and a reservation is strongly recommended.

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What We Ordered

*Bitter buck – rye, strawberry, ginger, and Campari combine to create an extremely well-balanced frozen cocktail, sweet enough to keep you coming back for another sip with nice bitter finish. I could have had 10 of these during dinner.

*Cheesy arancini with vodka sauce – perfectly fried rice-filled balls of cheesy goodness, what more could you want? (Truthfully, my only complaint is I could have used a double serving of the accompanying vodka sauce, which was delicious but a little sparse in my opinion)

*Salami piccante, chevre ricotta, tomato sauce, mozzarella, hot honey pizza – salty salami, spicy honey, creamy ricotta dollops, and a well-charred, thin, crisp crust combine to create a stellar pie that ranks among the best in Houston

*Cheesy baked leeks with parmesean breadcrumbs – think of the flavor of your favorite fancy mac and cheese and inject it with leeky, oniony goodness, a must order for leek-lovers and the leek-curious

*Rigatoni with beef and pork bolognese, and parmesan – comforting and well-seasoned, a excellent interpretation of an Italian classic

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Service

The service was good. Our food arrived in a timely manner, water refills were prompt, and the waitstaff was knowledgeable on the menu. At times the staff could be a bit too courteous – checking in so frequently it became almost disruptive to eating and table conversation. With that being said, we were quite pleased with the level of attentiveness and appreciative of the overall dedication to detail offered by the staff.

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The Verdict

The understated overachiever in a crowded field of Houston heavy hitters, Tiny Champions is the kind of place that makes you feel like you’ve been transported from EaDo to a trendy new spot in Bushwick for the night. Oozing with cool and serving killer food and cocktails with style, Tiny Champions is a must-try when visiting Houston and rightfully deserves a spot in the rotation for locals. I’ll certainly be back, and next time I’ll make sure to save room for dessert.

The Details